Swinton Square – Shopping Centre 2024

I was last here in 2022, I returned to Swinton Square on Saturday to lead a modernist walk for the Not Quite Light Festival.

So on a light bright sunny day, I took another look around.

Salford’s town centres are important to the city’s future. They provide employment for local people, retail and leisure opportunities, homes, a sense of community, and a place for local people to interact. However, it is well known that town centres are changing and that they need to adapt and reposition themselves so that they can thrive and meet the needs of the local communities.

Despite Swinton’s many strengths, it faces similar challenges to other towns. The shopping centre and other buildings in the town centre are dated and in need of investment. Demand for local housing has grown by 23% in the last five years, but there is a lack of high-quality family and affordable housing in the right locations in the area.

The city council has identified Swinton town centre – along with Eccles, as a priority area for regeneration. On that basis, the council has engaged with the community and local stakeholders to establish a clear vision for the town that will help to guide change and future investment, whilst protecting what local people consider important for Swinton. 

The vision document can be viewed here.

Swinton Square is in private ownership and therefore not something that the council has any direct control over. It is also important to acknowledge that the issues facing Swinton precinct are not unique to Swinton and those challenges are varied but linked to changing shopping habits, decline in the retail offer, competition from out-of-town centres as well as changes in the wider economy.

We do have an open dialogue with the owners of Swinton Square, the West Bromwich Building Society, who are aware of the vision and aspiration for Swinton.  

One of the aims of the council’s events and animation programme is to encourage additional footfall and dwell time within the town centre.

Salford Gov

Eastford Square Collyhurst – William Mitchell

It was 2016 when I first stopped to snap and blog – the shops, homes and William Mitchell concrete sculpture.

By then the missing housing block was already missing.

Returning in 2018 the shops are now shut and the homes stand empty.

In 2019 there’s still nobody home, but the totem is in place.

In 2020 the undergrowth has grown over the square.

It’s 2021 and stasis is the order of the day.

Fast forward to 2023 and the shops and homes are finally demolished – the totem still still in place.

The base has been dug out and the sculpture awaits removal to the adjacent flats.

I was told that one estimate for the job was £120,000 – given its weight and location over railway tunnels.

So as of today today 26th February 2024 – ain’t nothing shaking but the weeds twixt the flags.

Bury Interchange

Bury Interchange is a transport hub opened in 1980, it is the northern terminus of the Manchester Metrolink’s Bury Line, which prior to 1992 was a heavy-rail line.

It also incorporates a bus station.

Bury Interchange replaced the bus termini scattered around Bury town centre, notably around Kay Gardens.

Under construction – January 1979

1980 – before the trams.

Class 504 units at the interchange in 1983.

2015 – Allen Williams

Bury Interchange was opened by British Rail in March 1980, integrating a new bus station with the northern terminus of the Bury-to-Manchester heavy railway line, a new short spur line was constructed to connect the new station.

Bury Bolton Street – Ben Brooksbank

The railway had originally run into Bury Bolton Street which was further away from the town centre, and was closed by British Rail on the same day that Bury Interchange opened.

Wikipedia

An £80m transformation is coming to the Bury Interchange, which will see step-free access at the Metrolink, a “vertical circulation core” to better connect the Metrolink with the bus facility, and an integrated travel hub with spaces for cycle storage.

The work is much-needed, explained Transport for Greater Manchester’s Alan Lowe, he said that the interchange was built in the 1980s and very much is of its time.

It’s not what we need for our customers need.

The new Bury Interchange project is expected to complete at the end of the decade.

Place North West

However as of February 2024 – it look like this.

Bury Bolton Street is now operated by the East Lancs Railway.

There are failed plans to reinstate the Bury to Rochdale railway as a Metrolink line.

Bury Knowsley Street railway station.

The line and station were closed on 5 October 1970 as part of continuing cutbacks in British Rail services and the line west to Bolton subsequently dismantled.

Manchester Arterial – A664

The obvious place for the A664 to start is on the A665 Manchester & Salford Inner Relief Route, which at this point is actually two parallel one-way streets. However, many maps show the road continuing a short distance into the city centre to end at traffic lights by the Shudehill Interchange – this is presumably for historic reasons: the road originally continued along the High Street to its terminus on the A6 Market Street.

The road heads northeastwards through the suburbs, the street name Rochdale Road, already emphasising its destination. Initially dual, the road narrows just before crossing the bridge over the railway line east of Victoria station. It continues through Collyhurst and widens again just before crossing the A6010 Intermediate Ring Road, which here is made up of two parallel one-way streets, requiring two separate sets of traffic lights to cross.

Now non-primary – but still dual for a short distance more, the road runs in a more northerly direction through Blackley, where it becomes wooded for a short distance as it passes the Boggart Hole Clough park. Slightly further on the road has been straightened, after which it bears right to widen considerably and cross the A6104 at traffic lights just before M60 J20, which only has west-facing sliproads. The road narrows again on the far side of the motorway and leaves Manchester for Rochdale at the same point.

Sabre Roads

In 2014, having taken early retirement from teaching photography, I embarked on a series of walks along the arterial roads of Manchester.

See also Bury New Road and Cheetham Hill Road.

Westfield Estate – Sheffield

I was asked to give a talk for Photo North in response to Sean Madner’s photographs.

Speaking on behalf of the Sheffield Modernists.

On the day, I was eager to visit the Westfield Estate for the first time.

Westfield Estate Mosborough, formerly Waterthorpe Farm Estate, a rural township which was subsumed by Sheffield’s expanding housing schemes.

Mosborough, a vastly expanding village, eight miles North East of Chesterfield and six miles South East of Sheffield.

Waterthorpe Housing Estate near Beighton named after Waterthorpe – formerly Walterthorpe Farm.

Path which goes behind houses on Short Brook Close 1974

The Waterthorpe and Westfield housing estates were built from mid-1970s and were added to over a number of years. Eventually linking with both the old council estate of Beighton and the new estate of Halfway, the estates house a condensed significant number of almost wholly local authority owned properties following the phasing down and demolition of the original estates around Parson Cross and Shiregreen in the north of the city.

Wikipedia

Eastcroft Glen 1986

May Tree Lane

Archive photographs – Picture Sheffield

So I jumped the tram from Sheffield Station to Halfway alighting at Waterthorpe.

A long rambling ride, rolling in and out of rolling hills.

I headed over the footbridge and into the heart of the estate.

Northern Quarter Car Park – Manchester

Northern Quarter Church Street M4 1LX

Underused and seemingly unloved.

On the day of my visit building surveyors were measuring up the upper tier for resurfacing – the stairwells were unclean, and an air of dank neglect permeated my hesitant ascent.

Immerse yourself in the eclectic vibe of the Northern Quarter, the heartbeat of art, culture, and urban lifestyle. Whether you’re heading to its vintage shops, art studios, or chic cafes, finding the cheapest, best parking is paramount.

Stairs smell of stale urine and cannabis.

The pedestrian in the car park carries on regardless!

The sculpture is called Big Boys Toys – the work of artist Peter Freeman.

Sheffield Modernists

The outline of a presentation for Photonorth – November 16th 2023.

I was asked to talk about the photographs which Sean Madner had selected for exhibition on behalf of the Sheffield Modernists.

Illustrating a wide range of building types in and around Sheffield sheltering beneath the broad umbrella of Modernism.

By way of context the photographs are all Topographic in nature –  in which a landscape subject is photographed, devoid of people, framed orthogonally and lacking artifice or effect.

Practiced most famously by the 1970s New Topographics photographers, including Robert Adams, Lewis Baltz, Nicholas Nixon, and Bernd and Hilla Becher.

Bernd and Hilla’s photographs lead us to:

1 Potter Hill Water Tower

The British Water Tower Appreciation Society

2 Geography Building 1970 Sir William Whitfield

Alterations made 2022

3 Moore Street Substation 1968 Jefferson Sheard

Owen Hatherley describes it as:

A shocking paroxysm of a building, an explosion in reinforced concrete, a bunker built with an aesthete’s attention to detail, a building which is genuinely Brutalist in both senses of the term.

4 Horse and Lion Pub – Bass Charringtons

Prime example of a so-called Estate Pub.

With a hyper parabolic roof a doubly-curved surface that resembles the shape of a saddle, that is, it has a convex form along one axis, and a concave form on along the other.

Featured in the video for the Arctic Monkeys’ 2006 number one hit – When the Sun Goes Down at 1.21.

5 Park Hill – 1957 and 1961 Jack Lynn and Ivor Smith under the supervision of JL Womersley, 

Grace Owen Nursery – with two Wicksteed climbing frames

The Play Ground should not be put in a corner behind railings, but in a conspicuous and beautiful part of a Park, free to all, where people can enjoy the play and charming scenery at the same time; where mothers can sit, while they are looking on and caring for their children.

Charles Wicksteed

6 Gleadless Estate 1963 Lewis Wormersley City Architect

The Sheffield Blitz in December 1940 killed almost 700 and damaged some 82,000 homes, over half the city’s housing stock. As the city looked to rebuilding, its 1952 Development Plan estimated the need to replace 20,000 unfit homes and build a further 15,000 to cater for the natural increase of population.

Supreme, but often overlooked, achievement … is the Gleadless Valley Estate which combined urban housing types and the natural landscape so effectively that it still looks stunning, especially on a bright winter’s day.


7 Hallam Tower Hotel 1965 Nelson Foley of Trust House Architectural Department

It opened officially on 24th March 1965 and was the first luxury hotel to be built in the north of England since the Second World War. The exterior was designed to complement Sheffield’s post-war modernist developments; the interior by Colefax and Fowler of Mayfair offered warm, gay colours to contrast with the black and grey tones of the city.

8 Hope Cement Works

The plant started its first full year of production in 1929 

The plant was located at Hope, because it is at the edge of where carboniferous limestone of the Monsal Dale Group, meets Edale Shale, the two main components of finished cement.

Since 1951, when the Peak District National Park was created, most of the outbound traffic from the plant has been exported by rail.

As seen in the Channel 4 TV ident.

The same location used in Shelagh Delaney’s A taste of Honey.

9 Droppingwell FootbridgeWest Riding County Architect Colonel Stuart Maynard

Colleagues in the team included Bill Varley, Ron Bridle, Sri Sriskandan and FA Joe Sims. The team was responsible for the introduction of a great deal of new computing technology into bridge design, as well as for some of the most imaginative bridge engineering going on anywhere in the country. Their design efforts were supported by close involvement in research and testing work, for example, on half-joints and concrete hinges. All the above named engineers went on to considerable seniority, some in the Department of Transport, and Sims and Bridle in particular have published various papers and contributed to books on the history of Britain’s motorway development.

10 Beeversleigh Rotherham 1968-71 Main contractors J Finnegan 

It’s thirteen storeys high – housing forty eight dwellings.

11 Park House School 1964 Lyons Israel Ellis Gray

Listed in 2017 – then demolished.

12 Magistrates Court 1978 B Warren City Architect

13 Smithy Wood Footbridge

Built using a structure developed by EM Wincher in Pittsburgh 1930.

14 Westfield Estate Mosborough

Formerly Waterthorpe Farm Estate a rural township which was subsumed by Sheffield’s expanding housing schemes.

Tontine Car Park – St Helens

Exchange St Saint Helens WA10 1NU

Tontine car park, the 255-space multi-storey car park in Exchange Street, St Helens, has been closed since February this year for a revamp.

This has seen a new lighting system, new signage and re-lined parking spaces installed throughout following an investment by St Helens Borough Council.

In a statement, the local authority said:

Old and failing pay on foot equipment has also been replaced with brand new pay and display machines which take cash.

St Helens Star 2020

Well that there Bauhaus has a whole heap to answer for – with its curves and its concrete.

Influencing the sweeps and swoops of the car ramps and pedestrian walkways.

Morecambe Library – Again

Central Drive Morecambe LA4 5DL

I have of course been here before, way back in 2016.

With time to spare before leading a Modernist Mooch at 12.00, I came to have another look around.

Always a pleasure to visit this gem – the work of County Architect Roger Booth and his team.

Many thanks to manager Andrew Till and the rest of the staff for their warm welcome and this display of Booth’s drawings.

Many thanks to all those merry moochers that came along too!

Morecambe Walk

To begin at the beginning – to begin at the Telephone Exchange.

A plethora of surface textures and a purposely restrained palette, well suited to the architecture of infrastructure.

Around the corner the Royal Mail Sorting Office.

Onwards along Central Drive to the Library.

The work of County Architect Roger Booth and his team, opened in 1967.

With thanks to the Library Staff.

Seen here in its original form, before the alterations were made.

Image – Red Rose Collections

Off down to the former Odeon Cinema 1937 architects – W Calder Robson and Harry W Weedon

Like many of the original Odeon Theatres built by Oscar Deutsch, the site chosen was a little out of the main town centre – where land prices were cheaper, and the Odeon Morecambe is a good example of this. It is located at the corner of Euston Road and Thornton Road in this Lancashire seaside town. The Odeon was opened on 2nd September 1937 with Sandy Powell in “It’s a Grand Old World”. It had seating provided for 1,084 in the stalls and 476 in the circle.

Taken over by the Classic Cinemas chain in December 1967, it was re-named Classic Cinema, and was closed on 28th February 1976 with Kenneth Williams in “Carry On Behind”.

The stunning Moderne style exterior much of which including the projectionists walkway is now much deteriorated.

Cinema Treasures

Next to the Police Station another Roger Booth building – recently seen on the small screen in The Bay.

Backtracking to take in the Crescent Café entrance.

Which became Hart’s Restaurant now trading as the Black Thai.

Into the town centre to look at the former Centenary House Co-op 1927.

Bought by the city council as part of the West-End Masterplan, the intention is to refurbish the building’s upper floors to provide affordable housing and accommodation for local arts businesses, retaining the Co-op late shop that occupies one-half of the ground floor.

Let’s take a look along the front – where we find a former Woolworths.

Along with other stores from the same period.

Alongside sits the former Littlewoods.

By 1939 there were 24 stores. A number of these were purpose-built for Littlewoods to designs by J S Quilter & Son. John Salmon Quilter – 1841-1907 was, in fact, long dead, but his architectural practice had been continued by his son Cecil Molyneux Quilter – 1879-1951. Quilter specialised in commercial architecture, notably public houses. He designed a new Blackpool store for Littlewoods, on the corner of Church Street and Corporation Street, which was faced in Empire stone. He also designed a store in Chester, and may have been responsible for the one in Morecambe. This faience-clad art deco building is the best surviving example of a pre-war Littlewoods store – indeed, it may be the best surviving Littlewoods of all time – even preserving diamond L motifs on the entrance lobby floors. These clearly copied Woolworth’s diamond W.

Building our past

Next to Brucianni’s, a gem of a coastal café and ice cream parlour – Grade II listed.

Finally to the Midland Hotel 1932-3 by Oliver Hill

Concrete and rendered brickwork, painted white. Curved plan, with convex side facing west towards the sea. Three storeys. Windows are steel-framed casements with rendered surrounds. Above each storey are projecting horizontal bands. The entrance front has a rounded left-hand corner, and a convex central staircase projection rising above roof level. This projection has a tall window of steel casements above the doorway, divided into three by mullions, both of which are capped by sea horses, painted red, which were carved by Eric Gill. Projecting at the right is a single-storey cafe of circular plan, now known as the Ravilious Restaurant. The west side has a single-storey projecting sun lounge, which is an addition, its windows replaced in PVC-coated steel. Between the solid centre and ends of the facade the 1st and 2nd floors have their walls recessed to form balconies.

Interior: above the cantilevered circular open-well staircase is a ceiling panel carved in low relief by Eric Gill and painted by Denis Tegetmeier. They were also responsible for the pictorial map of north-west England in what was originally the children’s room at the south end of the building. Also in this room is Eric Gill’s Portland stone panel, originally in the lounge, carved in low relief with a representation of Odysseus and Nausicaa. It was moved to its present position when internal walls were demolished during the 1970s. The cafe walls were originally painted with frescoes by Eric Ravilious, representing morning and evening in an idyllic seascape setting. These deteriorated rapidly because the plaster and paint used were incompatible and were obliterated within 2 years of completion, but were repainted in the late 1980s using photographic evidence.

Eric Gill

Tirzah Garwood and Eric Ravilious

Sadly we are no longer able to see the long gone Super Swimming Stadium.

Architect: Kenneth MB Cross and Cecil Sutton

The Super Swimming Stadium at Morecambe, Lancashire, was one of the grandest of the 1930s modernist seaside lidos. This massive structure measuring 396ft. by 110ft. was said to be the largest outdoor pool in Europe when it opened in 1936, accommodating some 1200 bathers and 3000 spectators. Unusually for an inter-war lido, it was designed not in-house by a Borough Engineer but by two architects, Kenneth MB Cross and Cecil Sutton, who styled it to harmonise with the Streamline Moderne of Oliver Hill’s adjacent Midland Hotel.

The stadium was closed down in 1975 on grounds of structural problems and demolished just a year later.

Youth Clubs – Manchester

The history of youth work goes back to the birth of the Industrial Revolution in the 18th century, which was the first time that young men left their own homes and cottageindustries to migrate to the big towns. The result of this migration was an emergent youth culture in urban areas, which was responded to by the efforts of local people.

Work with young women however was seen as less important, because young women’s needs at this time were seen as being centred on homemaking, which were already, supposedly, provided for in the home.

By 1959 widespread moral panic in the press about teenage delinquency led the British government to look into a national response to catering for the needs of young people. In 1960 a government report known as The Albemarle Report was released, which outlined the need for local government agencies to take on responsibility for providing extracurricular activities for young people. Out of this the statutory sector of the youth service was born. For the first time youth centres and fully paid full-time youth workers made an appearance across the whole of Britain.

Wikipedia

Which is where I enter this short history, attending the Broadoak Youth Club in Ashton, during the late 60s early 70s. These were days of ping pong, snooker, spinning 45s and drinking pop if you had the coppers.

Council run, housed in an architectural style best described as bunker like.

I uncovered a little of Manchester’s youth club history during my travels.

The Ardwick Lads’ and Mens’ Club on Palmerston Street, latterly the Ardwick Youth Centre, opened in 1897 and is believed to be Britain’s oldest purpose-built youth club still in use and was until earlier in 2012. Designed by architects W & G Higginbottom, the club, when opened, featured a large gymnasium with viewing gallery – where the 1933 All England Amateur Gymnastics Championships were held – three fives courts, a billiard room and two skittle alleys – later converted to shooting galleries. Boxing, cycling, cricket, swimming and badminton were also organised. At its peak between the two world wars, Ardwick was the Manchester area’s largest club, with 2,000 members.

On the 10th September 2012 an application for prior notification of proposed demolition was submitted on behalf of Manchester City Council to Manchester Planning, for the demolition of Ardwick Lads’ Club  of 100 Palmerston Street , citing that there was “no use” for the building in respect to its historic place within the community as providing a refuge and sporting provision to the young of Ancoats.

Whilst cycling through Gorton, I passed the now defunct West Gorton Youth Centre.

Intrigued I started to dig a little deeper, I remembered playing five-a-side at Crossley House in Openshaw.

Openshaw Lad’s Club was founded in November 1888 by William John Crossley. It was previously known as the Gorton and Openshaw Working Lad’s Club and the Crossley Lad’s Club. The Crossley family financed the club up to 1941 and they built the club premises, Crossley House to commemorate Sir William Crossley after his death in 1911. The building was opened on 1 September 1913. In July 1941 the premises were handed over to the National Association of Boy’s Clubs and a management committee was formed to administer the club

Simon Inglis gives the architect as John Broadbent; Buildings of England names the architect as James Barritt Broadbent.

Architects of Greater Manchester

Stalybridge born outside right Tommy Broad started with Redgate Albion in 1902 spending time at Manchester City without making their first eleven before playing for Denton Wanderers in 1903 and Openshaw Lads Club in 1904 from where he joined Second Division West Bromwich Albion in September 1905 making his Football League debut at Wolverhampton Wanderers that September. After a single goal in 15 appearances he moved to Chesterfield Town in the February 1908 scoring 5 goals in 50 appearances for The Spireites over the next two seasons at Saltergate, where he was an ever present in 1908-09.

He moved to Second Division Oldham Athletic in May 1909 and they were promoted as Second Division runners-up in his first season when he missed only one game, scoring a career best 7 goals in the campaign, and in three seasons at Boundary Park he scored 9 goals in 104 appearances. He then played for Bristol City between the summer of 1912 and the suspension of peacetime football due to the onset of the First World War in 1915, where he missed only one match in his first two seasons, scoring 8 times in 111 appearances at Ashton Gate.

During the First World War he served in the Armed Forces and after its resolution he joined First Division Manchester City in the summer of 1919, making 44 appearances in two years at Hyde Road, and helping The Citizens to finish runners up in the League Championship in 1920-21, which he followed with a move to Stoke in the summer of 1921 where Broad along with his younger brother Jimmy helped The Potters to promotion in 1921-22, finishing as Second Division runners-up, although this was followed by relegation the following season.

After three years in The Potteries, where Broad scored 4 times in 89 first team appearances, he moved to the South Coast to join Southampton. Broad still holds the distinction of being the oldest player ever signed by The Saints, being just three weeks short of his 37th birthday. At The Dell, he was used as cover for Bill Henderson and only had a run of three games in October, followed by six more appearances in April. In September 1925, Broad moved to Weymouth of the Western League, before playing out his career with Rhyl.

Vintage Footballers

Manchester City’s ground was up the way at Hyde Road Stadium at the time.

In 2013 disaster struck the club:

A legendary boxing gym – former base of superstars Ricky Hatton and Marco Antonio Barrera – could be forced to shut after it was ransacked by thieves.

Crooks ripped out copper piping and stole priceless equipment from the Shannon Boxing Club in Openshaw.

MEN

Searching the Local Image Collection – revealed other locations.

Hulme 1901

Procter Youth Centre a victim of city’s spending cuts

Procter Youth Centre 1966-2011. Despite being in singularly ugly building, it was very popular, providing a wide range of activities such as pool, football and martial arts, to name but a few. In 2009 the premises were refurbished with £668,000 being spent on a weights room, dance studio, recording studio. Then two years later Manchester City Council did the logical thing – closed it! Some of the eight staff offered to take a pay cut but to no avail. There were plans to use the building as a pupil referral unit. Today the building stands in the middle of wasteland that is the process of redevelopment.

Steve Nesbitt 

Hulme 1972

Ancoats 1962

Ancoats Youth Club had sadly ceased being a place for the community to come together and use the facilities a number of years before it became a bed shop before it was finally demolished in 2011, with yet another community resource gone forever.

HistoryMe

Ancoats

Moss Side 1972

Blackley 1969

Victoria Park St Edwards Youth Club 1976

Fielden Park 1972

Newall Green 1972

Royal Oak Community Centre Baguley

Bringing us back to Gorton – the unoccupied and demolition ready Youth Centre.

Surrounded by new-build and no stranger to a passing Bentley.

Where the state has created a vacuum the charitable sector steps in.

Designed by Seven Architecture, the Manchester Youth Zone East will be the second of its type in Greater Manchester, following the Factory Youth Zone in Harpurhey.

Place North West

HideOut Youth Zone is a registered charity based in Manchester and has been in existence since 2019.  

We are a Youth Zone dedicated to providing opportunities and experiences to all local young people. 

HideOut

Following years of slow decline the area is on the up.

Linden Homes’ new build properties on Belle Vue Street, Gorton have now completely sold out, with the first of the 14 homes ready for homeowners to move into this month.

The properties are part of the £9m Grace Gardens development, which is situated in a prime location in an up-and-coming part of Greater Manchester.

Linden Homes

Though affordability is always an issue.

PrimeLocation

Manchester now runs three Youth Centres across the city.

tameside moderne book

Available online here or call in the Modernist Shop on Port Street Manchester.

Tameside Moderne

By Steve Marland

A comprehensive guide to the Borough’s modern architecture.

Almost two years in the making.

Tameside east of Manchester – a volcanic explosion of concrete, glass, steel, brick and wood!

From sacred sites to suburban substations, a rollercoaster ride through provincial style.

  
Softcover, 84pages,
B&W
148 x 210xmm – landscape

£10 well spent – be quick these will fly!

Eastford Square 2023

Here we were in 2016 – the last gasp of businesses on the square.

A hangover from the optimism of a long lost decade.

Local Image Collection

Returning in 2018 to find the shops all shut

In 2019 the grass now fills up the cracks.

April 2023 and the shops and homes are being prepared for demolition.

The company responsible for the demolition also dropped the Robert Tinker, on nearby Dalton Street.

While it is not yet clear exactly what will replace the shopping parade, work has already started nearby on other projects within the scheme. The first phase of development in Collyhurst will see 274 new homes built in the area.

MEN

The council has pledged to reinstate the William Mitchell totem nearby.

However the weight of the concrete sculpture and its base have presented unforeseen challenges.

Siting a crane above the Victorian rail tunnel is an issue, as is the cost, a quote for £100,000 was deemed excessive. So stasis is the order the day – the immovable object awaits an unstoppable force.

The sculpture is one of four around Manchester – the Hulme exemplar is long gone.

The Newton Heath and Platt Court totems are both still intact.

Wolverhampton Walk

Architects: Austin Smith Lord

We begin at the Railway Station – recently refurbished, overwriting its 60s iteration – completely rebuilt by the architect Ray Moorcroft as part of the modernisation programme which saw the West Coast Main Line electrified.

Across the way an enormous brick clad multi-storey car park – skirted by the lines for the tram, which travels to and from Birmingham.

Walk across the brand new pedestrian footbridge over the ring road.

Architectural glass artist Kate Maestri was commissioned to produce the artwork design which features glass with blue and green strips of colour running through it.

BBC

Architects: Austin Smith Lord

Linking the Rail Station with the brand new Bus Station.

The normal practice of the Wolverhampton Bus Service is to have dirty, smelly buses, that are cramped and extremely hot in the summer and freezing cold in winter. They offer no announcements apologizing for delays they know about and don’t appear to care how long passengers wait with no idea of how or when they’ll be getting a bus.

The best thing you can do is learn to drive as quickly as possible and get your own vehicle or car pool.

Sandra Anderson

Architects: Austin Smith Lord

Onward now to the Express and Star Building – Grade II listed.

Architect: Marcus Brown 1934.

The building is faced in a reconstituted Hollington stone called Vinculum, produced by another local firm, Tarmac.

A plaque commemorates RJ Emerson, art teacher and sculptor who sculpted Mercury in 1932.

Wolverhampton History and Heritage Society

Midland News Association managing director Matt Ross confirmed the company is now looking at the building’s future.

For a number of years we have been exploring opportunities surrounding our historic Express & Star offices in the heart of Wolverhampton.

After removing the printing presses from the site and restructuring our departments we now have significant spare capacity available and so are looking at the various options available to us, be that redeveloping the current site or exiting the building altogether.

Hold the front page

Extension is by architects: H Marcus Brown & Lewis 1965

With further work at the rear.

Along Princess Street this corner group, with an impressive clock tower – originally HQ for the South Staffordshire Building Society

Architects: George A Boswell of Glasgow 1932.

On to the Mander Centre – opened on 6th March 1968, refurbished 1987, 2003 and 2016-17.

The Mander Shopping Centre in the heart Wolverhampton is your one-stop shopping destination for all things fashion, home, beauty, food and technology.

Architects: James A Roberts principal architect Stanley Sellers.

Developed by Manders Holdings Plc, the paint, inks and property conglomerate, between 1968 and 1974. The site occupies four and a half acres comprising the old Georgian works and offices of the Mander family firm, founded in 1773, as well as the site of the former Queens Arcade.

Wikipedia

The Wulfrun Shopping Centre is an adjacent companion to the Manders development.

The Wulfrun Centre was built as a result of a joint project between Wolverhampton Council and the Hammerson Groupopen for business in October 1969.

History and Heritage Society

Piazza postcard 1970.

Architects: T & PH Braddock and also Bernard Engle & Partners.

Along St Georges Parade, an abandoned Sainsbury’s church combo – store designed by J Sainsbury’s Architects Department opened 1988.

The church was built between 1828 and 1830 – architect: James Morgan, at a cost of £10,268. It was consecrated on Thursday 2 September 1830 by the Bishop of Lichfield, it was made redundant in 1978.

Sainsbury Archive

The site is currently under lease to Sainsbury’s for a further three years and will come forward on a phased basis subject to their lease concluding. The council is in active dialogue with prospective development partners on the redevelopment of this site and in wider consultation with Homes England.

Express & Star

Back tracking to the Combined Court Centre.

Architects: Norman and Dawbarn 1990

Notable cases included trial and conviction of four members of The Stone Roses, in October 1990, for criminal damage to the offices of their former record company.

Wikipedia

Thence up Snow Hill to the former Citizens Advice former Barclays Bank currently empty.

Architects: John HD Madin & Partners 1969

Take time to have a look around the back.

Off to Church Street and Telecom House

Sold for £4.25 million to Empire Property in 2022.

It had previously been sold for more than £3m in July 2018, also for use for apartments, to Inspired Asset Management which later went into receivership.

Express & Star

Located on a popular apartment block on Church street in the Wolverhampton centre, this 1 bedroom property has been newly renovated throughout and compromises an entrance hallway, open plan lounge/kitchen with in built appliances, shower room and double bedroom.

£650 PCM – Connells

Next to this modern piazza New Market Square – Architects: Nicol Thomas from a concept by head of planning Costas Georghiou.

Formed from the former Market Square, a mix of flats and shops opened in 2004, in an Italianate version of the modish school of streaky bacon.

In 2021 the Coca-Cola Christmas Truck visit to the Midlands was cancelled.

It was meant to arrive at Market Square in Wolverhampton at 11am today but failed to show up.

One fan had waited since 7am this morning to see the Coca-Cola truck.

While schoolchildren were left gutted when the truck didn’t turn up – and one boy had been so excited his mother said he had been talking about the red truck all morning.

Birmingham Mail

Retail Market – Late 1950s market hall and offices above. 

Architects: Borough Surveyor. 

Excellent example of the Festival of Britain style of architecture, won Civic Trust Award 1960.

Locally Listed March 2000.

demolished January 2017.

Photo: Roger Kidd

This development that wraps itself around Salop, Skinner and School Streets appears to be of a similar period to the Retail Market – and sports a Lady Wulfrun in relief.

There is access to its roof top car park.

And also an exit back to street level.

Where we find at street level the former Odeon Cinema, opened on 11th September 1937 with Conrad Veidt in Dark Journey.

Architects: PJ Price and Harry W Weedon.

In October 2000, the former Odeon was designated a Grade II Listed building by English Heritage.

RIBA pix

In recent years it was a Mecca Bingo Club, but this was closed in March 2007 In October 2009, it had been refurbished and re-opened as the Diamond Banqueting Suite. In April 2021 police raided the vacant building to discover an illegal cannabis farm operating in the building.

Four men were arrested.

Let’s take a turn around the corner to Victoria Street where we find the complex of Beatties Buildings.

Architects: Lavender, Twentyman and Percy 1920’s – 30’s

The C20 Beatties store is a multi-period site developed first in the 1920s-30s. A Burton’s men’s clothes shop was built on a curved corner site at Victoria St/Darlington St and Beatties themselves replaced their existing Victoria St store in the 1930s with a building by local architects Lavender, Twentyman and Percy. Beatties later acquired and incorporated the Burton’s shop into their store. These two buildings form the locally listed building to which were added a mid-C20 extension along Darlington St and a late-C20 development to the rear at Skinner St.

c20 Society

An imperious Portland stone clad mixed us block on Waterloo Road, with a delightful clock.

Formerly the Gas Showrooms then Sun Alliance & London Insurance offices – aka Clock Chambers

The showroom in Darlington Street was also the centre of a radio network that controlled a fleet of service vans. This enabled customers to receive service within minutes of making a telephone call. Demonstrations of cookery, washing and refrigeration were given by the Gas Board’s Home Service Advisers and a number of the company’s engineers, who specialised in designing gas equipment for industrial processes operated an advisory service for manufacturers. 

Architects: Richard Twentyman 1939.

Nineteen Waterloo Road latterly First City House formerly home to Eagle Star Insurance 1970

8-10 Waterloo Road architects: Richard Twentyman 1959 extended 1966.

31 Waterloo Road – Waterloo Court architects: Kenneth Wakeford, Jerram & Harris 1972

Right turn to the Telephone Exchange

Architects: NHA Gallagher of the Ministry of Public Buildings and Works and Clifford Culpin & Partners job architect Leslie Parrett 1971.

Around the bend to The Halls – once the Civic Halls.

Architects: Lyons and Israel 1936-38

Refurbished 2003 by Penoyre & Presad with more alterations in 2021 by Jacobs consulting engineers.

RIBA pix – 1939

Over the road to the Civic Centre.

Architects: Clifford Culpin & Partners 1974-79.

We end our Wolverhampton wander at the College of Art and Design

Architects: Diamond Redfern and Partners with A Chapman Borough Architect 1969

Huge thanks to Tom Hicks aka Black Country Type for his invaluable assistance.

Burdock Way – Halifax

One man who saw the wisdom of building a road infrastructure to deal with high volumes of traffic passing through Halifax and to provide convenient links to the M62.

That man was prominent town councillor John Burdock.

Burdock Way, the modern flyover system, was opened in 1973 to take the A58 and A629 traffic over the River Hebble.

Peter Tuffrey: From The Yorkshire Post Archive

Faced with the problem of very high volumes of through traffic in its town centre, and with the impending construction of the M62 too far to the south to provide relief for the town, Halifax needed a bypass. The steep sided valley that the town centre inhabits prevented a conventional road from being built around the town, and so in the early 1970’s construction began on Burdock Way – one of the most adventurous relief road schemes built in Britain, certainly by a town the size of Halifax.

Only one phase of the futuristic road was ever built, but what exists is a partially grade-separated dual carriageway that runs through deep trenches and over tall viaducts close to the heart of the town. At its eastern end is a truly byzantine piece of traffic engineering that stretches the definition of a roundabout to its limit.

Roads

In October 1971 the official celebrations went anything but according to plan. It had been decided to give the people of Halifax a half day holiday so they could attend the opening, but there were not enough police on duty to control the sightseers. It was impossible to get complete silence for the speeches and arrangements to tell the artillery guns at Southowram Road when to fire broke down. They were fired prematurely while an archdeacon was offering prayers. The Mayor, HC McCrae, finally managed to announce that the bridge was officially open and he scurried back to the town hall where he hosted a banquet.

Burdock Way has never been fully completed as it is missing certain sections envisaged in the early 1960s plans. There are a number of reasons for this, but it is mainly owing to West Yorkshire County Council’s cost cutting in the 1970s. 

Yorkshire Post

This is the Valley of the Gwangi in the West Riding – minus the dinosaurs.

An urban chasm, the gulf between everything and nothing.

North Bridge is a Victorian iron and stone bridge crossing the valley of the River Hebble, connecting the town to roads to Bradford and Leeds. Replacing an earlier six arch stone bridge it was raised to allow the subsequent construction of the Halifax High Level Railway beneath it, along with an adjoining station.

Opened in 1871 amid chaotic crowd scenes it carried increasingly heavy traffic until it was by-passed by the Burdock Way in 1973.

It remains in use for local traffic.

Underpass – Chester

So it came to pass I visited another underpass or two – I’m a one man subway sect.

Having been to Scarborough, Rotherham, Milton Keynes, Newcastle and Stockport.

I’m overwhelmed by the underpass, where the passage of time is both slowed and hurried.

A feeling of unease will hasten your pace, a strange sense of transcendence allows you to linger longer.

There’s a world going on underground.

Rattle big black bones in the danger zone
There’s a rumblin’ groan down below
There’s a big dark town, it’s a place I’ve found
There’s a world going on underground

Tom Waits

The interlocking, converging and diverging passageways lit by both daylight, LED and UV have given the images a variety of colour casts.

Let’s take a look!

Central Area Flats – Sunderland

Three nineteen-storey point blocks built as public housing as part of the redevelopment of Sunderland town centre. The blocks contain 270 dwellings in total. Construction was approved by committee in 1967.

The blocks were constructed by Sunderland County Borough Council.

The developers of the Town Central Area were Town and City Properties Ltd. It is believed that they contributed £38,600 to the development of the blocks.

Ian Frazer and Associates were the architects for the sub-structural works only.

Llewelyn, Davies, Weeks and Partners were the structural and mechanical engineers in addition to being the architects for the tower blocks.

Gilbert-Ash Northern Ltd.’s tender for the contract was £959,258 – construction began in March 1967.

Heritage Gateway

Astral House, Solar House and Planet House.

Welcome to Marineville – anything can happen in the next half hour.

In actuality the blocks sit upon a shopping centre – recently redeveloped as The Bridges.

And we are not in Marineville.

Though once upon a time it looked like this – a brave new shopping world, well worth producing a postcard for.

Photos: Sunderland Echo

Photo: Tom McKitterick

Thanks to Sunderland Antiquarian Society for the links.

This is the current state of affairs.

Though there are still some remnants of the original development.

The whole shebang is topped off with a roof top car park.

So in the absence of anything else happening in the next half hour, I took a look around.

A one bedroomed flat on the eleventh floor will cost you £45,000

Killingworth

Construction of Killingworth, a new town, began in 1963. Intended for 20,000 people, it was a former mining community, formed on seven hundred and sixty acres of derelict colliery land near Killingworth Village. The building of Killingworth Township was undertaken by Northumberland County Council and was not formally a New Town sponsored by the Government. 

Unlike that town, Killingworth’s planners adopted a radical approach to town centre design, resulting in relatively high-rise buildings in an avant-garde and brutalist style that won awards for architecture, dynamic industry and attractive environment.

This new town centre consisted of pre-cast concrete houses, with millions of small crustacean shells unusually embedded into their external walls, five to ten storey flats, offices, industrial units and service buildings, which often consisted of artistic non-functional characteristics, shops and residential multi-storey car parks, interconnected by ramps and walkways. These made up a deck system of access to shopping and other facilities, employing the Swedish Skarne method of construction.

Killingworth Towers were demolished in 1987

Originally named Killingworth Township, the latter part was quickly dropped through lack of colloquial use.

Killingworth is referred to as Killy by many residents of the town and surrounding areas.

Around 1964, during the reclamation of the derelict pit sites, a fifteen acre lake south of the town centre was created; spoil heaps were levelled, seeded and planted with semi-mature trees.

Wikipedia

There were also groups of Calder Houses built, subsequently rendered neutral with render, their period characteristics erased.

Rightmove

All archive images RIBA pix

Once home to Thelma and Bob Ferris – whatever happened to the likely lads’ and lasses’ homes?

I had come in search of paradise on a 52 bus – too late was the cry, too late.

The winds of change had blown away the new coal dream, so I wandered lonely around the quiet streets.

The daffodils were past their best.

Further Education

The first school of design in the UK, the Government School of Design, was established in 1837 and went on to become the Royal College of Art. It marked the beginnings of the development of technical education in the UK, which expanded in the remaining decades of the 19th century, and was largely instigated by the Science and Art Department of the Board of Trade, formed in 1853.  In 1856 the Science and Art Department transferred from the Board of Trade to the Education Department and administered grant-aid to art schools from 1856 and to schools of design and technical schools from 1868.

The Technical Instruction Act 1889 permitted local authorities to levy rates to aid technical or manual instruction. County and borough councils began to provide technical instruction by day and evening classes.

The Local Taxation Customs and Excise Act 1890 diverted ‘whisky money’ from publicans to local authorities for assisting technical education or relieving rates, boosting investment in technical instruction.

By the end of the 19th century continuing education was provided by a variety of bodies in a number of forms:

  • day continuation schools 
  • evening schools and classes
  • mechanics institutes
  • schools of art
  • polytechnics
  • university extension lectures
  • tutorial classes
  • working men’s colleges and courses

Under the 1902 Education Act, changes to conditions attached to government grants encouraged the expansion of technical education. Local Education Authorities took over most of the evening continuation schools.

Major changes occurred after the Second World War. Junior technical schools , commercial schools and schools of art were fully integrated into the revised system of secondary education.

National Archives

The development of technical and art education were inextricably linked to the industrialisation of the north of England.

The Textile Court or main gallery space of the Arts and Crafts Museum of the Manchester Municipal School of Art, photographed in 1898-1901.

Flickr

Manchester School of Art was established in 1838 as the Manchester School of Design. It is the second oldest art school in the United Kingdom after the Royal College of Art which was founded the year before.

The school opened in the basement of the Manchester Royal Institution on Mosley Street in 1838. It became the School of Art in 1853 and moved to Cavendish Street in 1880. It was subsequently named the Municipal School of Art. In 1880, the school admitted female students, at the time the only higher education available to women, although men and women were segregated. The school was extended in 1897.

Wikipedia

The mill towns which encircled the city of Manchester each had their own independent colleges of Art and Design.

Textiles in particular required practitioners in surface pattern and garment design and construction, innovative and skilled students were in demand for print, engineering, architecture and general manufacturing – who also required the services of typographers, illustrators, commercial and graphic designers.

Having left school aged sixteen in 1971, all I ever wanted to do was go to Art School.

My local college was the then Ashton under Lyne College of Further Education – the full-time mode of study was then a two year Pre-Diploma Course.

It had begun life as the Heginbottom School of Art based at – Heginbottom Technical Schools School of Art and Free Library Old Street Ashton-under-Lyne.

The new Technical Schools and Free Library, which has just been completed were opened for students without any formal ceremony. The building has been erected from designs prepared by Messrs John Eaton and Sons, architects, Ashton, at a cost, including fittings of £16,000. 

The building is now Grade II listed and the library and college long gone.

A blue plaque in the main entrance celebrates the former student Raymond Ray-Jones.

Father of photographer Tony Ray-Jones.

This is the syllabus of 1924-25 – courses take place in evening as students would have been working during the day.

Many of the classes were clearly defined by gender.

Drawing was a seen as a skill which underpinned he majority of disciplines.

Some of the provision was non-vocational.

Forward now to 1959-60.

There are now full-time courses in Art and Design – though there were no degree courses until 1974, students would find employment, places on a teacher training course or possibly progress to one of the London colleges, which did have graduate status.

There were still clear distinctions in what were considered women’s skills, which also reflected the patterns of employment.

There was also an increasing distinction between specialisms, Fine and Applied Arts taking diverging paths.

An astounding range of skills were available on a part time evening basis, opening up vocational or non-vocational options.

These were always affordable and well attended.

Art and design education had undergone a major transformation in the early 1960s. The Coldstream report -1960/ 1962 had restructured art education: the existing National Diploma in Design had been replaced with a three year Diploma in Art and Design in 1963. The Dip.AD was conceived as providing ‘a liberal education in art’ and had four areas of specialisation: textiles/fashion, three dimensional design, graphic design, and fine art. Other subjects, such as electronic media, photography and film, were incorporated into fine art or graphic design courses.

The Dip.AD was intended to be the equivalent of a university degree. To achieve this academic entry requirements, at least five O’ levels, were introduced; although exceptions could be granted for “students with outstanding artistic promise”, very few were: only 36 were made in 1967 . The Dip. AD itself contained a compulsory academic element and enhanced art history component: taken together these accounted for 15 per cent of course time and 20 per cent of the final pass mark. One year Pre-diploma (latterly Foundation) courses termed Basic Design, were also introduced, these a product of the Bauhaus approach to art education, pioneered in the UK by and Richard Hamilton, Tom Hudson, Harr Thubron, Maurice de Sausmarez, and Victor Pasmore. Basic Design was a form of creative education involving basic analytic experiment and a clearing of the slate.

Centre for Global Higher Education

The college which I attended was opened on March 3rd 1964.

Gone were the autocratic Victorian stylings of the Heginbottom School – The College of Further Education represented a more open democratic age.

The communal areas were light and airy, with full-length windows, wooden floors, contemporary furniture and fittings.

The teaching rooms and workshops well equipped and staffed, with ample support from technicians and lecturers.

This was a no expense spared build – we were made to feel valued, in an institution purpose built for our education and future lives.

The full-time course was five full days a week, with one late evening for photography and art history.

I attended ever single day for two years, we were eager to learn and following an introductory merry go round of design disciplines, students were able to choose their own route.

I was privileged to have been taught by Bill Clarke as a student of Fine Art – of whom fellow Ashton student Chris Ofili said:

After six months on the foundation course I chose to specialise in painting and drawing. The teacher there, Bill Clarke, introduced me to painting in a way that didn’t make me feel restricted or limited. Not only was it something completely new, but it was something that allowed me to investigate further into who I am. He taught us that it wasn’t so much about painting a scene and making sure you got the shading right, but trying to get to a point where the thing that works is absolutely critical and essential to you as a living, breathing person. I was obviously aware of famous artists, but I suppose I never really thought that was what you could do with your life. He opened the door enough to make me think that it was worth going into the room.

Tate

Photo: Andy Duncan 2023

A huge emphasis was placed on observational drawing in the life-room, in addition to more exploratory work in a variety of media.

I also spent a great deal of time in the Print Room working in both etching and lithography with lecturer Colin Radcliffe.

Returning to the college four years ago, I found that the life room was now in use by the Animal Management course.

The site had been undergoing refurbishment and new development.

Built by Kier and designed by IBI Taylor and Young the Advanced Technologies Centre has been constructed following a £10.5 million investment.

Levolux designed, supplied and installed a customised architectural facade solution as part of the £10.5 million development of the Advanced Technologies Centre.

ITP supplied our VCL 250 vapour control layer as a protective solution underneath a stunning façade design. With a mono-filament reinforcement scrim for tensile strength, its polyethylene-based membrane ensures that the building envelope is properly sealed to control ventilation, prevent heat loss and protect insulates from interstitial condensation.

The single storey building was previously home to the Ceramics and Textiles rooms.

The Construction Skills Centre has been designed by Manchester-based architects 10 Architect.

Heckford Signs work with Willmott Dixon approached on a new coloured acrylic sign for the new Construction Skills Building at Tameside College.  The aim for this new sign was to create a showcase of the college logo at an eye-catching size, to include 3D elements which would be housed on the East elevation of the impressive new building on campus.

The rolling curves of the original workshops have been retained and updated.

Since leaving the college in 1973, I graduated from Portsmouth Polytechnic with a BA(Hons) Printmaking, subsequently spending thirty years of my working life teaching in a variety of Further Educational sites across Manchester.

Fielden Park College seen here in 1973 – where I taught design to the printing apprentices.

Originally designed by the City Architect SG Besant Roberts in 1965, refurbished by Walker Simpson Architects.

Closed.

Wenlock Way – an annex of Openshaw Technical College, a former primary school which housed courses in Sign Writing, Jewellery, Horology and Retail Display.

Demolished.

Openshaw College – since demolished and rebuilt, becoming Central Manchester College in the 90s.

We were relocated to Taylor Street in the former Bishop Greer School – renamed the East Manchester Centre.

Since demolished to make way for an old people’s home.

Following the reorganisation of Manchester’s FE provision we were moved again to the former Yew Tree High School, Arden Sixth Form College – renamed City College Manchester.

This block was eventually demolished to make way for the new Northenden Centre – which closed last year, which has in its turn been demolished.

Everyone was relocated to the brand new building on the former Boddington’s Brewery site.

Everyone but me, as I left in 2014 to become a modern moocher.

Manchester College City Campus

Following build completion in July, the long awaited 27,000 square metre, four-storey campus, designed by Bond Bryan and Simpson Haugh, offers a range of facilities, creating an exceptional student experience. It becomes the home of the College’s Industry Excellence Academies for Hospitality and Catering, Creative and Digital Media, Music, Computing and Digital as well as its Centres of Excellence for Visual Arts and Performing Arts.

It accommodates a range of Higher Education courses such as the UCEN Manchester’s School of Computing and Cyber-Security, The Manchester Film School and The Arden School of Theatre and the School of Art, Media and Make-up. 

BDP

Things may come and things may go but the Art School Dance goes on forever.

My thanks to the Tameside Local Studies Centre for assisting me in accessing their archive material.

Eagle Market – Derby

Derby’s Eagle Market, which has been open for nearly 50 years, is set to close for good in around six months from now. The indoor market is expected to shut down in March, traders were told in a memo late last month.

The long-standing city centre market has undergone major changes since opening in 1975. Over the past 46 years, dozens of traders have come and gone, from fruit and veg sellers to fine clothes retailers, pottery makers.

The nut stall that is greatly missed by nut fans.

Singer Frankie Vaughan opens Jack’s Rainwear at the market in 1976.

When it first opened, the venue was a maze of hexagonal stallswhich gave it a futuristic look, but it was a confusing layout and it was difficult to navigate and find the stall you wanted. The hexagons came down in 1990 in favour of a more traditional, open layout which made the market easier to escape in the event of a fire.

The Modernist modular structure replaced by a higher High-Tech roofing solution.

Petes Heel bar will be missed, along with his missing apostrophe.

Text and Photographs – Derby Telegraph

The redevelopment masterplan includes new homes and commercial uses with new public spaces and walkable streets that will integrate the site with the rest of the City Centre and improve new connections to the river. There is scope to introduce some tall buildings to make better use of the site with new food and beverage, leisure and other activity at ground floor level. The proposals will contribute towards the Council’s vision in a way that responds positively to the site context including surrounding character areas.

Derby Cathedral Quarter

I first came here four years ago – as the market was a venue for the Format International Photo Festival.

Saturday GirlCasey Orr

The market was already showing signs of decline, empty units and shutters shut down.

April 2023 the lights are on and there’s almost nobody home.