Sheffield Modernists

The outline of a presentation for Photonorth – November 16th 2023.

I was asked to talk about the photographs which Sean Madner had selected for exhibition on behalf of the Sheffield Modernists.

Illustrating a wide range of building types in and around Sheffield sheltering beneath the broad umbrella of Modernism.

By way of context the photographs are all Topographic in nature –  in which a landscape subject is photographed, devoid of people, framed orthogonally and lacking artifice or effect.

Practiced most famously by the 1970s New Topographics photographers, including Robert Adams, Lewis Baltz, Nicholas Nixon, and Bernd and Hilla Becher.

Bernd and Hilla’s photographs lead us to:

1 Potter Hill Water Tower

The British Water Tower Appreciation Society

2 Geography Building 1970 Sir William Whitfield

Alterations made 2022

3 Moore Street Substation 1968 Jefferson Sheard

Owen Hatherley describes it as:

A shocking paroxysm of a building, an explosion in reinforced concrete, a bunker built with an aesthete’s attention to detail, a building which is genuinely Brutalist in both senses of the term.

4 Horse and Lion Pub – Bass Charringtons

Prime example of a so-called Estate Pub.

With a hyper parabolic roof a doubly-curved surface that resembles the shape of a saddle, that is, it has a convex form along one axis, and a concave form on along the other.

Featured in the video for the Arctic Monkeys’ 2006 number one hit – When the Sun Goes Down at 1.21.

5 Park Hill – 1957 and 1961 Jack Lynn and Ivor Smith under the supervision of JL Womersley, 

Grace Owen Nursery – with two Wicksteed climbing frames

The Play Ground should not be put in a corner behind railings, but in a conspicuous and beautiful part of a Park, free to all, where people can enjoy the play and charming scenery at the same time; where mothers can sit, while they are looking on and caring for their children.

Charles Wicksteed

6 Gleadless Estate 1963 Lewis Wormersley City Architect

The Sheffield Blitz in December 1940 killed almost 700 and damaged some 82,000 homes, over half the city’s housing stock. As the city looked to rebuilding, its 1952 Development Plan estimated the need to replace 20,000 unfit homes and build a further 15,000 to cater for the natural increase of population.

Supreme, but often overlooked, achievement … is the Gleadless Valley Estate which combined urban housing types and the natural landscape so effectively that it still looks stunning, especially on a bright winter’s day.


7 Hallam Tower Hotel 1965 Nelson Foley of Trust House Architectural Department

It opened officially on 24th March 1965 and was the first luxury hotel to be built in the north of England since the Second World War. The exterior was designed to complement Sheffield’s post-war modernist developments; the interior by Colefax and Fowler of Mayfair offered warm, gay colours to contrast with the black and grey tones of the city.

8 Hope Cement Works

The plant started its first full year of production in 1929 

The plant was located at Hope, because it is at the edge of where carboniferous limestone of the Monsal Dale Group, meets Edale Shale, the two main components of finished cement.

Since 1951, when the Peak District National Park was created, most of the outbound traffic from the plant has been exported by rail.

As seen in the Channel 4 TV ident.

The same location used in Shelagh Delaney’s A taste of Honey.

9 Droppingwell FootbridgeWest Riding County Architect Colonel Stuart Maynard

Colleagues in the team included Bill Varley, Ron Bridle, Sri Sriskandan and FA Joe Sims. The team was responsible for the introduction of a great deal of new computing technology into bridge design, as well as for some of the most imaginative bridge engineering going on anywhere in the country. Their design efforts were supported by close involvement in research and testing work, for example, on half-joints and concrete hinges. All the above named engineers went on to considerable seniority, some in the Department of Transport, and Sims and Bridle in particular have published various papers and contributed to books on the history of Britain’s motorway development.

10 Beeversleigh Rotherham 1968-71 Main contractors J Finnegan 

It’s thirteen storeys high – housing forty eight dwellings.

11 Park House School 1964 Lyons Israel Ellis Gray

Listed in 2017 – then demolished.

12 Magistrates Court 1978 B Warren City Architect

13 Smithy Wood Footbridge

Built using a structure developed by EM Wincher in Pittsburgh 1930.

14 Westfield Estate Mosborough

Formerly Waterthorpe Farm Estate a rural township which was subsumed by Sheffield’s expanding housing schemes.

Penrhyn Again

Another year on, another day in Penrhyn Bay – fifth time around.

I have to admit that I’m fascinated by the manicured homes of this long sweep of road reaching from the base of the Little Orme.

It was fascination, I know
And it might have ended right then, at the start
Just a passing glance, just a brief romance
And I might have gone on my way, empty hearted

Nat King Cole

Once a scattered agglomeration of inter-war houses in the shadow of the limestone quarry.

On each visit one apprehends the ever so slowly evolving additions, carefully considered property improvements, another new car in the same old town.

Keeping it quietly personal.

Chisworth Works

Chisworth Works Coombes Lane Holehouse Charlesworth and Chisworth SK13 5DQ

Built at the end of the 18th or in the early 19th centuries; Chisworth Works was as a cotton band manufactory. During these times, the site was called Higher Mill. 

It was referred to as Higher Mill, as there was a lower works, Mouse Mill in Holehouse, owned by the Booth family.

Glossop Heritage

Keiner & Co., at Charlesworth, employ over 100 people and are engaged principally in the production of synthetic and chrome tanning extracts.

Glossop Official Handbook 1948

It has been a longstanding, low-lying object of interest to those intrepid Urban Explorers.

A planning application of 2009 was submitted for redevelopment of the terraced cottages.

Proposed alterations and change of use to form ten two bedroom cottages from existing five dwellings and vacant office accommodation.

This was the state of play in April 2021 – the interior photographs were taken through an open aperture.

Lead Chromate can affect you when inhaled or swallowed. Contact can irritate and burn the skin and eyes. Prolonged skin contact may cause blisters and deep ulcers. 

Inhaling Lead Chromate can irritate the nose, throat and lungs.Exposure can cause headache, irritability, and muscle and joint pain. Repeated exposure can cause Lead poisoning with metallic taste, colic and muscle cramps.

Inhaling Lead Chromate can cause a sore and/or a hole in the septum.

Lead Chromate may cause a skin allergy.

Lead Chromate may damage the nervous system. Exposure may cause kidney and brain damage, and anemia.

The building was subsequently owned by EP Bray.

Wherever the choice has had to be made between the man of reason and the madman, the world has unhesitatingly followed the madman. 

Aldous Huxley –  Crome Yellow

Chrome yellow is a derivative of Lead Chromate.

For over two hundred years the site has been a place of toil, dangerous toil taking its toll.

The valleys which inevitably fed the Mersey, were home to the origins of the Industrial Revolution – people and water powered.

This is a toxic landscape, nestled in the heart of ancient post-glacial earth movements:

Geomorphological investigations of two landslide areas on the Cown Edge escarpment showed that slope failure was primarily the result of local stratigraphic and lithological conditions and not of past climatic vicissitudes or changes in the form of the relief. Failure on each occasion took place by shearing along the same line of weakness: shales either within a calcareous shale band or in close proximity to it became decomposed and unable to bear the weight of the slope forming material above it. Each displacement resulted in a bank slip failure and the formation of a block glide landslide. The morphology indicates that slip movements has occurred several times and the periods when these took place have been determined using palynological methods. These results indicate that the Cown Edge landslides date from a post-glacial period.

JSTOR

As of August 2023 the terraces remain un-rehabilitated.

The forecourt of the factory is currently strewn with the detritus of an ever more wasteful world.

Fallowfield Campus – University of Manchester

We visited the Lancashire County Archive where we were shown this brochure from the Building Design PartnershipBDP archive, which is held there.

The archive is open to the public.

I have previously led walks there to view the Apollo sculptural relief by Mitzi Cunliffe.

I am assured that the relief will be re-sited within the new development.

The Student Village was opened in 1964.

RIBApix

Local Image Collection

Plans are in place for redevelopment of the site and the demolition of the tower block and adjacent housing.

The scheme, designed by Sheppard Robson, would see 3,300 new bedspaces brought forward, taking the total number of units at the complex to 5,400, a net increase of 950. This is an increase of around 1,000 new units compared to the previous iteration of the project, approved in 2015.

Place North West

Youth Clubs – Manchester

The history of youth work goes back to the birth of the Industrial Revolution in the 18th century, which was the first time that young men left their own homes and cottageindustries to migrate to the big towns. The result of this migration was an emergent youth culture in urban areas, which was responded to by the efforts of local people.

Work with young women however was seen as less important, because young women’s needs at this time were seen as being centred on homemaking, which were already, supposedly, provided for in the home.

By 1959 widespread moral panic in the press about teenage delinquency led the British government to look into a national response to catering for the needs of young people. In 1960 a government report known as The Albemarle Report was released, which outlined the need for local government agencies to take on responsibility for providing extracurricular activities for young people. Out of this the statutory sector of the youth service was born. For the first time youth centres and fully paid full-time youth workers made an appearance across the whole of Britain.

Wikipedia

Which is where I enter this short history, attending the Broadoak Youth Club in Ashton, during the late 60s early 70s. These were days of ping pong, snooker, spinning 45s and drinking pop if you had the coppers.

Council run, housed in an architectural style best described as bunker like.

I uncovered a little of Manchester’s youth club history during my travels.

The Ardwick Lads’ and Mens’ Club on Palmerston Street, latterly the Ardwick Youth Centre, opened in 1897 and is believed to be Britain’s oldest purpose-built youth club still in use and was until earlier in 2012. Designed by architects W & G Higginbottom, the club, when opened, featured a large gymnasium with viewing gallery – where the 1933 All England Amateur Gymnastics Championships were held – three fives courts, a billiard room and two skittle alleys – later converted to shooting galleries. Boxing, cycling, cricket, swimming and badminton were also organised. At its peak between the two world wars, Ardwick was the Manchester area’s largest club, with 2,000 members.

On the 10th September 2012 an application for prior notification of proposed demolition was submitted on behalf of Manchester City Council to Manchester Planning, for the demolition of Ardwick Lads’ Club  of 100 Palmerston Street , citing that there was “no use” for the building in respect to its historic place within the community as providing a refuge and sporting provision to the young of Ancoats.

Whilst cycling through Gorton, I passed the now defunct West Gorton Youth Centre.

Intrigued I started to dig a little deeper, I remembered playing five-a-side at Crossley House in Openshaw.

Openshaw Lad’s Club was founded in November 1888 by William John Crossley. It was previously known as the Gorton and Openshaw Working Lad’s Club and the Crossley Lad’s Club. The Crossley family financed the club up to 1941 and they built the club premises, Crossley House to commemorate Sir William Crossley after his death in 1911. The building was opened on 1 September 1913. In July 1941 the premises were handed over to the National Association of Boy’s Clubs and a management committee was formed to administer the club

Simon Inglis gives the architect as John Broadbent; Buildings of England names the architect as James Barritt Broadbent.

Architects of Greater Manchester

Stalybridge born outside right Tommy Broad started with Redgate Albion in 1902 spending time at Manchester City without making their first eleven before playing for Denton Wanderers in 1903 and Openshaw Lads Club in 1904 from where he joined Second Division West Bromwich Albion in September 1905 making his Football League debut at Wolverhampton Wanderers that September. After a single goal in 15 appearances he moved to Chesterfield Town in the February 1908 scoring 5 goals in 50 appearances for The Spireites over the next two seasons at Saltergate, where he was an ever present in 1908-09.

He moved to Second Division Oldham Athletic in May 1909 and they were promoted as Second Division runners-up in his first season when he missed only one game, scoring a career best 7 goals in the campaign, and in three seasons at Boundary Park he scored 9 goals in 104 appearances. He then played for Bristol City between the summer of 1912 and the suspension of peacetime football due to the onset of the First World War in 1915, where he missed only one match in his first two seasons, scoring 8 times in 111 appearances at Ashton Gate.

During the First World War he served in the Armed Forces and after its resolution he joined First Division Manchester City in the summer of 1919, making 44 appearances in two years at Hyde Road, and helping The Citizens to finish runners up in the League Championship in 1920-21, which he followed with a move to Stoke in the summer of 1921 where Broad along with his younger brother Jimmy helped The Potters to promotion in 1921-22, finishing as Second Division runners-up, although this was followed by relegation the following season.

After three years in The Potteries, where Broad scored 4 times in 89 first team appearances, he moved to the South Coast to join Southampton. Broad still holds the distinction of being the oldest player ever signed by The Saints, being just three weeks short of his 37th birthday. At The Dell, he was used as cover for Bill Henderson and only had a run of three games in October, followed by six more appearances in April. In September 1925, Broad moved to Weymouth of the Western League, before playing out his career with Rhyl.

Vintage Footballers

Manchester City’s ground was up the way at Hyde Road Stadium at the time.

In 2013 disaster struck the club:

A legendary boxing gym – former base of superstars Ricky Hatton and Marco Antonio Barrera – could be forced to shut after it was ransacked by thieves.

Crooks ripped out copper piping and stole priceless equipment from the Shannon Boxing Club in Openshaw.

MEN

Searching the Local Image Collection – revealed other locations.

Hulme 1901

Procter Youth Centre a victim of city’s spending cuts

Procter Youth Centre 1966-2011. Despite being in singularly ugly building, it was very popular, providing a wide range of activities such as pool, football and martial arts, to name but a few. In 2009 the premises were refurbished with £668,000 being spent on a weights room, dance studio, recording studio. Then two years later Manchester City Council did the logical thing – closed it! Some of the eight staff offered to take a pay cut but to no avail. There were plans to use the building as a pupil referral unit. Today the building stands in the middle of wasteland that is the process of redevelopment.

Steve Nesbitt 

Hulme 1972

Ancoats 1962

Ancoats Youth Club had sadly ceased being a place for the community to come together and use the facilities a number of years before it became a bed shop before it was finally demolished in 2011, with yet another community resource gone forever.

HistoryMe

Ancoats

Moss Side 1972

Blackley 1969

Victoria Park St Edwards Youth Club 1976

Fielden Park 1972

Newall Green 1972

Royal Oak Community Centre Baguley

Bringing us back to Gorton – the unoccupied and demolition ready Youth Centre.

Surrounded by new-build and no stranger to a passing Bentley.

Where the state has created a vacuum the charitable sector steps in.

Designed by Seven Architecture, the Manchester Youth Zone East will be the second of its type in Greater Manchester, following the Factory Youth Zone in Harpurhey.

Place North West

HideOut Youth Zone is a registered charity based in Manchester and has been in existence since 2019.  

We are a Youth Zone dedicated to providing opportunities and experiences to all local young people. 

HideOut

Following years of slow decline the area is on the up.

Linden Homes’ new build properties on Belle Vue Street, Gorton have now completely sold out, with the first of the 14 homes ready for homeowners to move into this month.

The properties are part of the £9m Grace Gardens development, which is situated in a prime location in an up-and-coming part of Greater Manchester.

Linden Homes

Though affordability is always an issue.

PrimeLocation

Manchester now runs three Youth Centres across the city.

tameside moderne book

Available online here or call in the Modernist Shop on Port Street Manchester.

Tameside Moderne

By Steve Marland

A comprehensive guide to the Borough’s modern architecture.

Almost two years in the making.

Tameside east of Manchester – a volcanic explosion of concrete, glass, steel, brick and wood!

From sacred sites to suburban substations, a rollercoaster ride through provincial style.

  
Softcover, 84pages,
B&W
148 x 210xmm – landscape

£10 well spent – be quick these will fly!

Eastford Square 2023

Here we were in 2016 – the last gasp of businesses on the square.

A hangover from the optimism of a long lost decade.

Local Image Collection

Returning in 2018 to find the shops all shut

In 2019 the grass now fills up the cracks.

April 2023 and the shops and homes are being prepared for demolition.

The company responsible for the demolition also dropped the Robert Tinker, on nearby Dalton Street.

While it is not yet clear exactly what will replace the shopping parade, work has already started nearby on other projects within the scheme. The first phase of development in Collyhurst will see 274 new homes built in the area.

MEN

The council has pledged to reinstate the William Mitchell totem nearby.

However the weight of the concrete sculpture and its base have presented unforeseen challenges.

Siting a crane above the Victorian rail tunnel is an issue, as is the cost, a quote for £100,000 was deemed excessive. So stasis is the order the day – the immovable object awaits an unstoppable force.

The sculpture is one of four around Manchester – the Hulme exemplar is long gone.

The Newton Heath and Platt Court totems are both still intact.

Hyde Road Stadium – Manchester

Hyde Road was a football stadium in West Gorton, Manchester, England.

It was home to Manchester City FC and their predecessors, from its construction in 1887 until 1923, when the club moved to Maine Road.

Billy Gillespie on the ball.

Before its use as a football ground, the site was an area of waste ground, and in its early days the ground had only rudimentary facilities. The first stand was built in 1888, but the ground had no changing facilities until 1896; players had to change in a nearby public house, the Hyde Road Hotel.

As a Chester’s house, a condition of the club’s official link to the pub was that supporters and club officials and players would sup Chesters ales, and in return Stephen Chesters Thompson of the brewery helped finance stadium improvements.

The move of MCFC to Maine Road in 1923 following a fire at the Hyde Road ground, didn’t adversely affect the Hyde Road Hotel and it continued to serve the West Gorton community and the once-bustling Hyde Road thoroughfare.  

As late as the 1980s, renamed the City Gates, it was a popular watering hole before the match for supporters travelling in from East Manchester.  It was kitted out in all sorts of MCFC memorabilia and was run by George Heslop, City legend of the 1960s, after he’d had the Royal George in town.

Sadly, as the community around it was decimated, the pub struggled and its last hurrah was as the City Gates theme pub.  The business failed in 1989 and the pub sat empty and rotting for twelve years until it was demolished, despite a half-hearted fans campaign to save it.  Two keystones from the Hyde Road Hotel reside in the MCFC memorial garden and are all that remain of this significant Manchester pub.

Pubs of Manchester

Sadly one of many Hyde Road pubs to bite the dust

By 1904 the ground had developed into a 40,000-capacity venue, hosting an FA Cup semi-final between Newcastle United and Sheffield Wednesday the following year.

The stands and terraces were arranged in a haphazard manner due to space constraints, and by 1920 the club had outgrown the cramped venue. A decision to seek an alternative venue was hastened in November 1920, when the Main Stand was destroyed by fire. Manchester City moved to the 80,000-capacity Maine Road in 1923, and Hyde Road was demolished shortly afterward. One structure from the ground is still in use in the 21st century, a section of roofing which was sold for use at The Shay, a stadium in Halifax.

Maine Road – which in turn closed on May 11th 2003, City losing 1-0 to Southampton

City are now at home at the Etihad – formerly the Commonwealth Games Stadium.

The area was also home to the Galloway Boiler Works – you can see the employees of 1900 here.

The northeastern end of City’s stadium was known as the Galloway End.

Bennett’s Iron Foundry also occupied the site – excavation of which, is currently taking place.

Bilclam furniture now sells for big money.

The foundry employed some of the club’s players, and the Galloway Boiler Works, supplied some of the materials to develop the Hyde Road ground.

Chorlton History

I had always known the area as the Olympic Freight Depot – seen from the passing train.

I cycled by the other day and the containers are long gone – the site is being cleansed to a depth of two metres.

Loitering by the gates, I asked if I may take some snaps .

Please y’self – so I did.

So what’s next on the cards, for this little corner of local history – set twixt Bennett Street and Hyde Road?

New homes is on the cards – and on the hoardings.

Plans have been revealed for a 337-home development on the Olympic Freight depot in West Gorton.

Brought forward by Sheffield-based Ascena Developments, the planning application to Manchester City Council outlines proposals for 191 houses and 146 apartments, split across two blocks.

Alongside the homes, the development would include a 3,000 sq ft circular community centre and café, shop, and a unit which is earmarked for a chip shop.

Place Northwest

However:

Kellen Homes has been granted planning consent to redevelop the thirteen-acre Olympic Freight depot on Bennett Street in Manchester into 272 homes. 

The developer, owned by Renaker founder Daren Whitaker, lodged plans for the West Gorton scheme last year following the withdrawal of an earlier and larger scheme drawn up by Sheffield-based Ascena Developments. 

So no chip shop, I assume?

Place Northwest

The site will require significant remediation, impacting the scheme’s viability, the report states.

As a result, no affordable housing is proposed.  

Thanks.

Central Area Flats – Sunderland

Three nineteen-storey point blocks built as public housing as part of the redevelopment of Sunderland town centre. The blocks contain 270 dwellings in total. Construction was approved by committee in 1967.

The blocks were constructed by Sunderland County Borough Council.

The developers of the Town Central Area were Town and City Properties Ltd. It is believed that they contributed £38,600 to the development of the blocks.

Ian Frazer and Associates were the architects for the sub-structural works only.

Llewelyn, Davies, Weeks and Partners were the structural and mechanical engineers in addition to being the architects for the tower blocks.

Gilbert-Ash Northern Ltd.’s tender for the contract was £959,258 – construction began in March 1967.

Heritage Gateway

Astral House, Solar House and Planet House.

Welcome to Marineville – anything can happen in the next half hour.

In actuality the blocks sit upon a shopping centre – recently redeveloped as The Bridges.

And we are not in Marineville.

Though once upon a time it looked like this – a brave new shopping world, well worth producing a postcard for.

Photos: Sunderland Echo

Photo: Tom McKitterick

Thanks to Sunderland Antiquarian Society for the links.

This is the current state of affairs.

Though there are still some remnants of the original development.

The whole shebang is topped off with a roof top car park.

So in the absence of anything else happening in the next half hour, I took a look around.

A one bedroomed flat on the eleventh floor will cost you £45,000

Killingworth

Construction of Killingworth, a new town, began in 1963. Intended for 20,000 people, it was a former mining community, formed on seven hundred and sixty acres of derelict colliery land near Killingworth Village. The building of Killingworth Township was undertaken by Northumberland County Council and was not formally a New Town sponsored by the Government. 

Unlike that town, Killingworth’s planners adopted a radical approach to town centre design, resulting in relatively high-rise buildings in an avant-garde and brutalist style that won awards for architecture, dynamic industry and attractive environment.

This new town centre consisted of pre-cast concrete houses, with millions of small crustacean shells unusually embedded into their external walls, five to ten storey flats, offices, industrial units and service buildings, which often consisted of artistic non-functional characteristics, shops and residential multi-storey car parks, interconnected by ramps and walkways. These made up a deck system of access to shopping and other facilities, employing the Swedish Skarne method of construction.

Killingworth Towers were demolished in 1987

Originally named Killingworth Township, the latter part was quickly dropped through lack of colloquial use.

Killingworth is referred to as Killy by many residents of the town and surrounding areas.

Around 1964, during the reclamation of the derelict pit sites, a fifteen acre lake south of the town centre was created; spoil heaps were levelled, seeded and planted with semi-mature trees.

Wikipedia

There were also groups of Calder Houses built, subsequently rendered neutral with render, their period characteristics erased.

Rightmove

All archive images RIBA pix

Once home to Thelma and Bob Ferris – whatever happened to the likely lads’ and lasses’ homes?

I had come in search of paradise on a 52 bus – too late was the cry, too late.

The winds of change had blown away the new coal dream, so I wandered lonely around the quiet streets.

The daffodils were past their best.

Eagle Market – Derby

Derby’s Eagle Market, which has been open for nearly 50 years, is set to close for good in around six months from now. The indoor market is expected to shut down in March, traders were told in a memo late last month.

The long-standing city centre market has undergone major changes since opening in 1975. Over the past 46 years, dozens of traders have come and gone, from fruit and veg sellers to fine clothes retailers, pottery makers.

The nut stall that is greatly missed by nut fans.

Singer Frankie Vaughan opens Jack’s Rainwear at the market in 1976.

When it first opened, the venue was a maze of hexagonal stallswhich gave it a futuristic look, but it was a confusing layout and it was difficult to navigate and find the stall you wanted. The hexagons came down in 1990 in favour of a more traditional, open layout which made the market easier to escape in the event of a fire.

The Modernist modular structure replaced by a higher High-Tech roofing solution.

Petes Heel bar will be missed, along with his missing apostrophe.

Text and Photographs – Derby Telegraph

The redevelopment masterplan includes new homes and commercial uses with new public spaces and walkable streets that will integrate the site with the rest of the City Centre and improve new connections to the river. There is scope to introduce some tall buildings to make better use of the site with new food and beverage, leisure and other activity at ground floor level. The proposals will contribute towards the Council’s vision in a way that responds positively to the site context including surrounding character areas.

Derby Cathedral Quarter

I first came here four years ago – as the market was a venue for the Format International Photo Festival.

Saturday GirlCasey Orr

The market was already showing signs of decline, empty units and shutters shut down.

April 2023 the lights are on and there’s almost nobody home.

Cayton Bay – Concrete

Things come and go on the coast.

As Mr Marx noted:

All that is solid melts into air.

The soft clays of the cliffs are subject to constant erosion.

In 2008 fresh landslips have occurred around Cayton Bay. The bungalows built on the old holiday camp at Osgodby Point have started to suffer serious erosion. The cliffs around the Cornelian and Cayton areas are just made of soil. So erosion is to be expected. It may taken time. But there is not much which can be done to prevent the seas moving in.

Scarborough Maritime History

The Pumping Station was partially demolished in 1956.

Several well worn layers of geological time have been hanging around for a while now.

Whilst the long-gone critters are but fossilised versions of their former selves.

The rocks found at Cayton Bay are Jurassic aged from the Callovian stage. At the north end of Cayton Bay, the Cornbrash Formation can be seen, comprised of red-brown, sandy, nodular, bioturbated limestone with oysters and other bivalves.The Cornbrash lies beneath the start of the Cayton Clay Formation. Walking south towards Tenant’s Cliffs, Lower Calcareous Grit is brought to beach level, followed by a calcareous limestone. At the waterworks, low tides reveals a section in the Middle and Upper Jurassic rocks.

On scouring tides, argillaceous limestone and calcareous sandstone can be seen layered along the Upper Leaf of the Hambleton Oolite, which is seen excellently in the low cliff on the southern side of the Brigg. The tough, impure limestone contains well-preserved bivalves and ammonites. The sequence is shown in the diagram but faulting has caused unconformities.

During scouring, Oxford Clay can be seen along the foreshore south of the argillaceous limestone. Walking further south, Red Cliff is reached, where rocks of the Osgodby Formation slope above the Oxford Clay.

UKFAH

The Wallis’s Holiday Camp of 1936 – eventually overwritten by a more a la mode commercial enterprise.

Photos: Glen Fairweather

Also missing in action the NALGO Holiday Camp – we are no longer a land of the Closed Shop, rather a land of the closed trade union holiday camp.

There was a similar setup at Croyde Bay.

Originally the first Trade Union holiday camp in the North of England, owned by NALGO it opened its doors in 1933. It had 124 wooden bungalows, accommodating 252 visitors. A dining hall with waiter service, a rest room along with recreation rooms for playing cards, billiards, a theatre for indoor shows and dancing was also provided. The new centre also provided Tennis courts, Bowling greens along with a children’s play area. The visitors could walk to the beach where there was a sun terrace and beach house which also had a small shop.

Click here to see photos of the NALGO camp from the 1930s.

One of the earliest visitors were the family of poet Philip Larkin and during the Second World War it became a home for evacuated children from Middlesbrough.  

The NALGO camp closed in 1974 and was later sold.

The wide sandy bay was an ideal location for WW2 pillboxes and gun emplacements – anticipating a possible North Sea invasion.

They too are built quite literally on shifting sands.

The pillbox – one of many built along the coast to defend against an invasion during World War II – had started to break down, leaving one large piece of stone in a precarious position.

Rob Shaw, of Ganton, noticed the large slab was propped up dangerously against another piece of stone last September.

He said he reported his concerns to Scarborough Borough Council then, but that nothing was done until last month.

The dad-of-two said before the work:

I used to work in construction and I would have been fired if I had left a lump of concrete like that, it could weigh four or five tonnes.

It just needs lying flat on the sand so it can’t fall on anyone.

A spokesperson for Scarborough Borough Council said the council had assessed the pillbox and arrangements had been made for the problem section to be removed.

The Scarborough News

This unstable cliff-top structure was allegedly hastened bay-wards by the Council.

Claims that we pushed the pillbox off the cliff are untrue – our colleagues have many amazing talents but pushing huge concrete structures is not one of them. The structure people can see at the base of the cliff is the other section of the pillbox that has been on the beach for many years.

Yorkshire Post

So let’s take a look at the state of play as of March 2023 – walking amongst these crumbling concrete remnants.

Collyhurst Cheetham Circular

It’s Friday, the rain has almost stopped and I have a job to do.

The putative William Mitchell totem in Eastford Square is being moved.

Having taken a particular interest in this particular piece of public art for some time – I need to go and take a little look.

But what will we see along the way, as we hasten along Rochdale Road?

Which once looked like this, way back when in 1904.

Though some things inevitably come and go, as some things are prone to do.

The city is undergoing yet another reinvention as Manchester becomes – an attractive place to invest and do business.

See, I am doing a new thing!

Now it springs up; do you not perceive it?

I am making a way in the wilderness and streams in the wasteland.

Isaiah 43:19

Once there was a gas works here – adjoining Gould Street, seen here in 1958.

The Gould Street Gas Works was a gas manufacturing plant located in Manchester, England. Originally built in 1824, the plant was operated by the Manchester Corporation Gas Department and was in operation from 1833 to 1969. It was named after the street on which it was located, which was named after John Gould, who was a prominent Manchester businessman in the 19th century.

Derelict Manchester

The Gasworks New Town neighbourhood is one of seven envisioned by the £4bn Victoria North masterplan. It will feature nine buildings ranging from 8 to 34 storeys. The 6.6-acre site has most recently been home to a car park but the green development will overwhelmingly prioritise walking and cycling over driving. It will result in tens of millions of pounds being pumped into the city’s economy over the lifetime of the development.

Plans for a trailblazing city centre regeneration scheme that will create more than 1200 homes has been approved by Manchester City Council.

MCR Property

A total of 85 of the 1200, will be affordable homes available through Shared Ownership. 

Though as of March 31st 2023 ground is yet to be broken, no signs of the:

New centre of gravity for central Manchester that will create thousands of jobs and inject tens of millions of pounds into the city’s economy.

So you zig-zag wanderers, make the most of these wide open expanses of affordable car parking, while you can.

The future may yet be here today – or the next.

Let’s duck under the railway, through this sad damp pedestrian tunnel – the domain of the cash strapped daytime drinker, transient tagger and disaffected leaflet distributor.

Next thing you know you have emerged into the daylight on Dalton Street – we have been here before seeking the Collyhurst Cowboy.

Photograph: Dennis Hussey

Onwards to Eastford Square.

The shops and maisonettes are due to be demolished any day now – no longer to gaze open-eyed upon the former quarry of Sandhills.

Around the front the diggers have been a digging – digging up around the base of the totem.

The work is to be re-sited by the nearby tower blocks.

The end is nigh.

Heading now for Collyhurst Road and the Irk Valley – seen here in 1960.

Looking back on the Square and the Dalton Street flats – Humphries, Dalton, Roach, Vauxhall and Moss Brook Courts under construction.

Vauxhall Street now but a shadow of its former self – the last traces of industry long gone.

Reclaimed over time by trees and dense underbrush.

Crossing Collyhurst Road and up and over the railway via Barney’s Steps also known as the Lowry Steps.

LS Lowry

By the late 1950’s the whole of this area which we called Barney’s Tip became a refuse tip for Manchester City Council.

Britain from Above

The area is in the process of being reconfigured as a delightful country park.

The investment will also help develop an initial phase of the planned City River Park incorporating St Catherine’s Wood as part of a network of public open space, including improvements along the River Irk and works to improve flood resilience, unlocking the potential of the Irk Valley that will characterise the wider Northern Gateway project.

About Manchester

The first phase of the City River Park will begin work to transform former railway architecture to develop the new Viaduct Linear Park north of Victoria Train Station, new stepped public realm space – Red Bank Terraces, along with new green space by the River Irk and the key improvements to St Catherine’s Wood.  

Manchester Gov UK

The Victoria North Express is coming your way!

Pressing on we pass the Showman’s quarters.

Collingham Street is lined with trucks, trailers, stalls and mobile homes.

But there’s nothing temporary about this Cheetham Hill neighbourhood; most residents have lived here for years and many plan to spend the rest of their lives here.

Founded more than forty years ago, it was created by the Showman’s Guild of Great Britain – and it’s reserved exclusively for fairground workers both retired and current.

Built on Queens Road tip, a former rubbish dump, and rented out by Manchester Council, many of the 52 homes belong to older retired showmen or families for whom an itinerant lifestyle has become more challenging.

It’s a close-knit community with a unique shared history.

MEN.

Emerging eventually onto Rayburn Way.

Home to the Eden Girls Leadership Academy and Eden Boys Leadership Academy.

And a whole host of delightful light industrial units.

Let’s all go west – along North Street.

On the corner of Derby Street and Honey Street we find Hamnett & AndrewInsuflex Works

Later transformed into Linen Hire, though I fear that further linen hire may well be in abeyance, on a permanent basis.

What was happening at the Queens Arms back in 1966?

These were the older premises.

Then next door, the newer premises.

Photo: Alison G

The Queens Arms was held in high regard amongst the real ale crowd and had been a regular fixture in the Good Beer Guide.  

As recently as 2007 it was named the City Life Pub of the Year, 

Empress Brewery Co Ltd – 383 Chester Road, Old Trafford.

Registered as above May 1896 – 236 public houses. 

Acquired by Walker Cain Ltd. 1929 and brewing ceased.

Brewery History

The pub was extended in 1987.

Seen here in 2015 closed for the foreseeable.

Recently becoming Flamingo – well strike me pink!

Though not without its own particular issues it would seem, according to the MEN.

The licensing out of hours team has received noise complaints relating to the premises which was found to be open beyond permitted hours when visited. Officers also identified breaches of the Health Act during inspections in which people were seen smoking shisha pipes in an enclosed extension at the back.

We will leave the Flamingo be and head back into town – but not without giving a nod to this confusing collision between this self-made scrapyard-man chic gate and the ever changing skyline of overheated urban regeneration.

The new creation has come: The old has gone, the new is here!

Corinthians 5:17

Archival photographs – Manchester Local Image Collection

Charlestown Towers

We have previously taken a look at Deepdale Court.

I returned last week to look at the remaining blocks.

Cartmel, Rusland and Somerton are all social housing.

Kentmere and Whitebeck have been adapted for senior citizens managed by Northwards Housing.

Freshfields formerly Grisedale is owned by private developers LPC Living and converted into a block of one, two and three bedroom homes.

Now, they boast floor-to-ceiling windows in the living spaces, modern fitted kitchens, and light wood-effect floors. Some also come with balconies.

A penthouse apartment, sold for £135,000 in 2008, even has a wrap-around outdoor terrace.

Manchester Evening News

The circular tiles within Grisedale’s entrance have been covered or removed.

Tower Block – 1987

Tunstall Court and Skelton Court have been demolished.

Let’s take a look back at the building of Victoria Avenue East – seen here in 1922.

The demands of an expanding industrial base and population created the need for new roads and housing.

There was subsequent development of inter-war semi-detached homes.

The urgent post-war need for temporary accommodation – was met by prefabricated structures.

Manchester City Council agreed to use the Phoenix model for their prefab estates.

A total of 43,206 Phoenix prefabs were built across the country, each one designed by the John Laing Group.

The Phoenix, designed by Laing and built by themselves as well as partners McAlpine and Henry Boot, looked much like an AIROH with a central front door. It was a two-bedroom in-situ preform design with steel frame, asbestos clad walls and an innovative roof of tubular steel poles with steel panels attached. Like all designs, it came pre-painted in magnolia, with green highlights on frames and skirting.

Phoenix prefabs cost £1,200 each constructed onsite, while the specially insulated version designed for use on the Isle of Lewis in the Hebrides cost £2,000.

Wikipedia

The prefabs were eventually demolished and along came the tower blocks – Architect J Austen Bent, whose work we have seen on the Wythenshawe Walk

In the distance Chadderton Power Station – demolished in 1986.

Photographs – Local Image Collection

Here are the blocks prior to and during the current renovation programme.

Kentmere

Cartmel

Somerton

Rusland

Here are the group as of February 2023.

I was thrilled to find that each of the blocks had variants within the typology of handmade tiles.

Kentmere

Somerton

Cartmel

Rusland

There seems to be no record of attribution for these tiles – happily they are still extant.

Go and take a look.

Huddersfield Re-walked

I have walked this way before.

More than once, though that’s no reason not to do so again – so I did.

Saying hello to Harold.

Harold saying hello to us:

Nostalgia won’t pay the bills; the world doesn’t owe us a living; and we must harness the scientific revolution to win in the years to come. This scientific revolution is making it physically possible, for the first time in human history, to conquer poverty and disease, to move towards universal literacy, and to achieve for the whole people better living standards than those enjoyed by tiny privileged classes in previous epochs.

He warned change would have to reach every corner of the country; The Britain that is going to be formed in the white heat of this revolution will be no place for the restrictive practices or for outdated methods on either side of industry.

Fabian Society

Standing sentinel over one of Nikolaus Pevsner and John Betjeman’s favourite railway station front elevations.

Through a passage darkly.

Emerging into the light of day and the demolition of the Kirklees College 1969-72 by Borough Architect Charles Edmund Aspinall.

My thanks to the Metropolitan team who invited me in beyond the barriers.

We provide safe and efficient demolition services across a broad range of projects, from the small domestic dwelling to  large scale industrial units – we offer the complete solution. With excellent communication and impeccable health and safety standards, we can project manage the decommissioning a structure on time and on budget.

Edward VII is under wraps.

Everything else is up for smash and grab – including the later concrete block immortalised by Mandy Payne.

LIDL is coming – and some homes

The final details have now been signed off by the council and work on the six-acre site – which includes the Grade II-listed original Huddersfield Royal Infirmary – can now begin.

The vandal-hit and fire-damaged late 1960s and early 1970s college buildings are to be demolished and Lidl will build a new supermarket with a 127-space car park. The store will eventually replace the store on Castlegate.

The former hospital will be retained and the site will see 229 apartments and an office complex. The apartments are expected to be for older or retired people.

Huddersfield Hub

The inter-war infirmary is also destined for an imminent demise.

Next we take a turn around the bus station.

Changes are afoot for the buses.

Huddersfield’s £20M game-changing bus station is set to be completed by the end of 2025 with a living grass roof, sixty bike cycle hub, upgraded shops and new facilities

The project between West Yorkshire Combined Authority and Kirklees Council aims to transform one of West Yorkshire’s busiest bus stations, and uplift the area that surrounds it.

Over the way this diminutive commercial building – with a distinctive rectangular stopped clock and boldly incised gold leaf heraldic device.

Architects: Ronald Ward & Partners.

The same crew were also responsible for Millbank Tower

Crossing the road to the Civic Centre and the perennially empty piazza which along with the Magistrates Courts and Police Station was the work of the Borough Architects team – led by Charles Edmund Aspinall.

Walking excitedly toward the Exsilite panels set in the stone faced columns – a brand name for a synthetic, moulded, artificial marble.

Magistrates Courts

Police Station

Dick Taverne served under Harold Wilson’s premiership in the 1960s, he served as a Home Office Minister from 1966 to 1968, Minister of State at the Treasury from 1968 to 1969 and then as Financial Secretary to the Treasury from 1969 to 1970.

In 1970, he helped to launch the Institute for Fiscal Studies, now an influential independent think tank and was the first Director, later chairman.

Wikipedia

A view up the road to Buxton House – Contractor J Gerrard.

J Gerrard & Sons Ltd’s tender for the contract was £146,210. 

The Queensgate Market and Piazza Centre is at the heart of redevelopment plans.

The vision is to create an inclusive space where families, residents and visitors can enjoy a vibrant mix of music, arts, food and more in one central area, overlooking a stunning new urban park.

Kirklees Together

The Market is currently closed.

The Piazza repurposed – currently housing the regeneration exhibition.

The council plans to demolish the Piazza Centre and create a new events/live music venue, a food hall, a museum and art gallery, a new library and a new multi-storey car park, all centred around a new Town Park.

Huddersfield Hub

I do hope that the decorative panels and door handles survive.

Wandered around the University Campus as the light faded.

Barbara Hepworth Building Architects: AHR

Named after one of the Twentieth Century’s finest artists, the space nurtures a new and inspired generation of designers. Through visual and physical connection, the environment encourages students to work together, stimulating communication and ingenuity, the ingredients of successful collaboration.

Take that to the bank/s

Keep savin’, keep buildin’
That interest for our love
Take that to the bank
Keep savin’, keep buildin’
That interest for our love
Take that to the bank

Shalamar

HSBC was designed by Peter Womersley, who also designed the thoroughly modern private house, Farnley Hey, near Castle Hill, which won the RIBA Bronze Medal in 1958.

Halifax Building Society

Having walked around town for more hours than enough I sought respite in The Sportsman and a glass of Squawk multi-berry fruited sour

Deepdale Court – Blackley

Deepdale Court Northwold Drive Manchester M9 7HX

On the way betwixt somewhere and there I took time to come here.

A tower block on high ground on the edge of Blackley.

One of nine seventeen-storey blocks containing eight hundred and forty six dwellings.

Committee approval date: 1967

Building contractor: Direct Municipal Labour

The two blocks that were demolished were Tunstall Court and Skelton Court.


Freshfields as listed is the new name for Grisedale Court as was sold by council and now private flats.

There are 16 floors in each block, 15 on one side and 16 on the other side

This area is known as the Charlestown Towers.

Tower Block

1987 – Grisedale Court with circular tiles in the entrance.

Over time the balconies have been boxed in and more recently the glazing replaced.

I was particularly interested in the hand made tiles inside the entrance – very much in the style of William Mitchell.

Swinton Square – Shopping Centre

Opened in 1966 along with the slightly later Lancastrian Hall and Library, the Swinton Square shopping precinct provided an integrated modern setting for shopping, living, learning and entertainment.

The late 60s and early 70s was a time of general prosperity – and the hard landscaping offered a soft option for the local folk.

This was the age of the Precinct, celebrated nationally with postcard after postcard.

My local haunt in Ashton under Lyne.

Local traders and national chains rubbed shoulders.

There was even a Job Centre opening- there was even a wide range of vacancies.

Following a challenging year, the letting reinforces Swinton Square as a pillar in the local community. Whilst retail has been heavily affected throughout the Covid-19 pandemic, footfall at the scheme has remained buoyant, with shoppers staying local, favouring the convenience and independent retailers of Swinton Square. Renovations began on the site of the new, temporary job centre at the beginning of the year and is due to be completed in May. The centre is expected to boost footfall and support for local, independent businesses.

Avison Young

Despite Swinton’s many strengths, it faces similar challenges to other towns. The shopping centre and other buildings in the town centre are dated and in need of investment. Demand for local housing has grown by 23% in the last five years, but there is a lack of high-quality family and affordable housing in the right locations in the area.

The vision is just the first step of the journey, the next is to appoint a developer partner who can take this vision and help shape it, through ongoing consultation and engagement with the community, into a framework and plan for Swinton that will guide future investment.  

Salford Gov UK

The road to Swinton is paved with good intentions – rather than gold.

Sadly I was too late for August’s Dino Crazy Golf.

Housing – Cwmbran

Here we are again in Cwmbran having previously visited Monmouth Square and Taliesin.

The Masterplan, produced for the Cwmbran Development Corporation by Minoprio & Spencely & Macfarlane in 1950 – image from the Gwent Archives

Royal Commission

Cwmbran was founded in 1949 as a new town, to provide new employment opportunities in the south eastern portion of the South Wales Coalfield, but the area has a long history.

We shall now explore the housing framed by the railway and shopping centre.

From Cleeve Barr’s Public Authority Housing – published in 1958.

A mix of pedestrianised terraces and low rise blocks, set in a loose grid of roads and rolling, tree-lined, grassed areas.

Over time there has been the addition of uPVC and the revisionist intrusion of the ahistorical carriage lamp.

Incidentally an area with more al fresco shopping trolleys than I had ever seen, I assume that the big Asda, located within walking distance of the homes, to be the progenitor of such a notable proliferation.

It remains, generally speaking a well kept lived in area – let’s take a look.

Taliesin – Cwmbran

What’s in a name?

Taliesin (/ˌtælˈiɛsɪn/ tal-YES-inWelsh: [talˈjɛsɪn]; fl. 6th century AD) was an early Brittonic poet of Sub-Roman Britain whose work has possibly survived in a Middle Welsh manuscript, the Book of Taliesin.

Taliesin is the home, studio, and 800-acre agricultural estate of Frank Lloyd Wright. Wright built Taliesin on his favorite boyhood hill, in the Wisconsin River valley homesteaded by his Welsh grandparents. He named it Taliesin in honor of the Welsh bard whose name means Shining Brow, reflecting his belief that the crown of the hill was reserved for nature, and that buildings should be constructed at the brow of the hill.

Frank Lloyd Wright

It is also a name commonly found on many of the common place dwellings of the Principality.

Tre-Taliesin is a village in Ceredigion  nine miles south of Machynlleth.

The village is known for the Bedd Taliesin, a hilltop Bronze Age tumulus which is traditionally regarded as the site for the grave of the Welsh bard, Taliesin. It is listed as a Historic Monument. It is a round-kerb cairn with a cist about 2m long. The capstone has fallen; the side stone slabs are more or less in their original positions.

Wikipedia

Which brings us to Taliesin Cwmbran a group of 58 flats located at the northern end of a road named Forgeside.

This development is something of an anomaly, breaking the mould of the conventional New Town housing which surrounds it.

Broadly Postmodern – with passing references to half timbered buildings, yet with more contemporary cladding. A wandering profile and angular roofline which echoes Hollywood Medievalism, paired with a fortress like enclosure of space and scaled down passageways.

So far no architectural attribution – any clues anyone?

MacCormac Jamieson & Prichard 1981-82

Thanks to Richard Brook over at Mainstream Modern.

Central Retail Park – Ancoats Manchester

We have been here before – before the wrecking ball.

Subsequently, the tills have long since ceased to ring.

The road to redevelopment is paved with good intentions, and so far a profound lack or realisation.

The local folk objected to the planned luxury offices.

Tomorrow Manchester City Council’s Executive is set to approve the development framework for the former Central Retail Park that will see it turned into a zero carbon office district. But, according to a public consultation carried out by grassroots campaigners, an overwhelming majority of locals want public spaces on the 10.5 acre site in Ancoats rather than luxury offices.

The Meteor October 2020

As of April 2022 Trees Not Cars have sought the views of local representatives following the decision not to go ahead with the building of a multi-storey car park

What we need are councillors who will stand up for us and push for as much green space as possible at Central Retail Park development.

It’s council owned, it would link in well with Cotton Field Park and will give the capacity for locals to enjoy the outdoors – without driving, once New Islington Green has been developed into offices.

Trees Not Cars April 2022

There is a perennial plea for affordable homes and green space, along with perennial structural and institutional barriers to their financing and building.

Place North West 2019

The circle between the developers, landowners, local authority and central government stubbornly refuses to be squared.

As of 20th September 2022 the land remains derelict – currently the domain of wayward taggers, spray-can jockeys and homemade mini-ramp skaters.

A concrete rectangle dotted with Buddleja davidii  – surrounded by Manctopia and main roads.